Hooking up two combo amps

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Hooking up two combo amps

They also recommend 3 stage chargers. Charging voltages for flooded and AGM batteries are different, so the charger should be settable to the type of battery you have. Both types will have a longer life if they are not discharged as deeply, but, it seems like for a camper van that might only be used 30?

The batteries live inside the van in a case that is vented to the outside. Another option that is just becoming practical is to use Lithium batteries as used in electric cars. They would reduce weight and size Hooking up two combo amps quite a bit over the lead acid batteries, but are still expensive, and would likely take some careful homework to get right.

It provides for up to 12 DC circuits and up to 4 AC circuits. This looks like another good option for a combined AC and DC distribution panel… Battery Isolator This gadget allows the van alternator to be used to charge the house battery, while preventing the van starting battery from being drained by powering loads in the RV.

It isolates the van starting battery from the house battery when the ignition switch is off so that RV loads only discharge the house battery. The idea is that even if you discharge the house battery overnight, the van starting battery will still be fully charged.

This relay based unit appeals to me because: I guess this could be good if your starting battery is low, but maybe not so good if your house battery is low? In hindsight, a unit with a lower amperage rating would have been fine.

The unit is inline with a 50 amp circuit breaker, so anything over 50 amps would probably be fine.

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The maximum recommended charging current for the golf cart batteries is about 30 amps. Another option would be to use a Voltage Sensing Relay. This is a relay similar to the one above, but the relay is activated just monitoring the van battery voltage to determine if the engine is running or not.

It requires less wiring. When you are not hooked up to shore power and are being powered by the house battery, it provides limited volt AC power for the van from the house battery. When you are hooked up to shore power, it turns off the inverter function and passes the shore power through to the AC loads that are connected to the inverter, AND it charges the house battery using a full 3 stage charger.

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We selected the Tripp Lite APS, which provides watts of AC from the battery, and when in charger mode, provides up to 30 amps of battery charging using a 3 stage charger.

These inverter chargers are made by several companies. I chose the Tripp Lite mostly because I have a larger one I bought several years ago and it has held up well.

Like most of these inverters, it draws some power from the battery whenever the inverter is turned on even if nothing is plugged into the inverter, but it can easily be turned off manually when no AC power is being used, so this is a nuisance, but not a serious one.

The charge controller goes between the PV panel and the house battery.

Hooking up two combo amps

It transforms the PV panel output voltage down to a voltage that is suitable for charging the battery, and it prevents the solar panel from overcharging and damaging the battery.

This is a relatively new design that has quite a bit of flexibility for small solar systems. The unit is very nicely made in the US. The manual is written in an informative and down to earth style that is refreshing compared to the awful manuals that come with so many products.

The unit includes basic monitoring of the system, and they sell an add on unit for more extensive monitoring if desired.

Midnite Solar has a nice online tool that lets you see if the PV panel s you are planning to use are compatible with the KID. I decided to use just one large solar panel. This seems easier than mounting and wiring together several panels. Its a watt, 72 cell panel. The 72 cell design provides enough voltage 36 volts to work with the KID charge controller as a single panel.

I ordered the panel from the local Platt Electric — their price was competitive and if you pick it up at Platt there is no shipping charge. I have not mounted the panel yet.


Thinking about mounting it as low as possible and aft of the Maxx Fan on the centerline of the roof. Still thinking about the best way to bring the two wires from the PV panel into the van. Full details on the solar panel mounting and wiring here… Update: March — new product to look at Ran across this house battery charger.

It will charge from the van alternator or solar or both at same time.During the 's, my focus was almost entirely on analogue software, which became a priority (if not a panic) when it seemed, for a while, that analogue hardware might even be on its way out or, at the least, completely marginalized.

Oct 10,  · How to Connect an Electric Guitar to a Combo Amp.

May the tone be with you

Three Methods: Connecting Directly to the Amp Hooking Up Guitar Pedals Testing the Equipment Community Q&A.

While many traditional amps come with two pieces of equipment called the head and cabinet, 80%(12). Our aim for the camper van electrical system is to be able to do without electrical hookups indefinitely, and to be able to be away from any power source for a day or two without much sun and without having to run the engine.

To achieve this we have tried to keep electrical loads down [ ].

Hooking up two combo amps

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1. THD Hot Plate Ohms Attenuator for Ohm load and works best for amps rated at ohms such as Fender 3X10 combo's. Offers Bright and Deep switches for tailoring your sound - Bright switch gives you two different high frequency levels to compensate for an overly bright, or dull speaker cabinet while the Deep switch offers two distinct bass settings to help you fill out the bottom end.

How to Hook Up Heads and Cabinets | Bass Gear | StudyBass